A Magical Day in the High Mountains: Madison & Adams

As a wrote about this summer, some days the weather forecast is too good to miss going up into the mountains. When the sun is bright and the wind is low above treeline all us mountain goats are eager to climb. Those days are "Presi Days", the best times to ascend the tallest peaks in the Whites.


My son still had Mt. Madison and Adams to check off his list for the White Mountain 48. While his best friend has already been up them before, she was eager to go up in the snow. I was happy to have her mother come with us for safety sake. In fact this was the first time Nicholas and Ella had been above tree line in full winter conditions. After we had climbed Madison and were traversing to Mt. Adams Nicholas said "now I feel like we're really mountaineering!".


He told the truth. With the deep snow, the sky radiating through mountain haze, the steep approaches above tree line, we were really mountaineering. We were far from alone. The relative warmth and calm wind that day brought dozens of others up the northern Presidentials. The company only added to the feeling of being on a high Alpine slope. We had the chance on top of Mt. Adams to meet Sandy Price, one of the grand elders of White Mountain hiking. It was a magical day, one better chronicled in pictures than my poor words.

heading up Valley Way

lunch at the Madison hut

Climbing the col to Mt. Madison

my favorite view of Mt. Washington

ascending Adams

Summit of Mt. Adams

enjoying the mountain top

It's a long way down Air Line

King Ravine will wait for another day

Returning to Zealand: a little winter makes all the difference

While my two little mountain goats were not disappointed to skip Mt. Zealand last weekend, I was. I have a difficult time lowering my ambitions sometimes. But climbing mountains is frequently a lesson in humility. Especially in the deep seasons one must be honest in evaluating how much energy and daylight are needed to complete a route. So skipping a run out to Mt. Zealand after trekking over Mt. Hale was a good choice, but that meant we still had another peak to claim.

heading back up the Zealand Trail

We enjoyed the sometimes muddy walk out down the Zealand Trail last Sunday. The conditions this weekend were a few degrees closer to full winter. Where there had been leaves and bare ground at the trail head prior there was now ice and snow. We bare booted the first mile up until we found a solid sheet of flow ice covering the trail. The spikes went on at that point and stayed on for the rest of the day. We walked confidently on frozen ground instead of sliding across the mud as we had 8 days earlier. The kids stopped to see how much ice had formed in a week on Zealand Pond.

Zealand Pond was iced over

We arrived at Zealand hut still full of energy, a sharp contrast to the prior week. A large group of Boy Scouts were making their way slowly down from the hut after a night out. We took off our spikes to go in for a snack. The hut was near empty and the quiet of almost  winter had settled in. After double checking the weather forecast we geared up for the ascent to Mt. Zealand. The creek crossings were also radically different than the prior week. The water was lower at each and ice had formed thick enough to stand on some banks. The boy took a courageous leap across White Wall Brook into a snow bank.

The route up to Mount Zealand is not difficult but for one stretch. Immediately after crossing White Wall Brook the trail climbs 800 feet in the next mile. While that is not severe in the White Mountains, the gentle grades of the Zealand Trail can lull a walker into a false sense of ease before climbing this ascent. I got into a steady rhythm kicking steps into the snow and ice. To my surprise the kids were struggling to match my pace, so I slowed the tempo. Then it struck me, neither of them had hiked in crampons on a sustained ascent before. We spent a few minutes learning the basic techniques for walking with crampons. Once we practiced a few steps they were right with me.

the look at the top of the A-Z ascent

After topping out on the Twin Way we took the short diversion to a look out over the notch. A pair of young men were relaxing on the open ledge and enjoying the view. A solo hiker came up as we headed back to the Twin Way. The final spur to the Zealand summit itself is underwhelming. A few short steps from the main trail with minimal elevation gain and we arrived at the summit sign. After a few pictures we sat down for lunch, watched over by a pair of grey jays.

the view from the hut

The kids practically skipped down the trail on the way back. By the time we returned to the hut we all needed a little rest. While the kids sat on the porch I enjoyed one last good view down the notch to the east. The cold start to November means that winter has come early to the White Mountains. And up high, a little winter can make all the difference.

When to Say When: Cutting the Route on Mt. Hale

Climbing mountains is always an exercise in judgement. In order to reliably reach a peak one must first research the route, the terrain, and the hazards. Then one should always read the weather forecast and recent trip reports to estimate the trail conditions. All of that information is merely background for what one will find on any given outing. The critical skill for trips during the "serious seasons", between mid October and mid May, is using that information to make good choices. While fatal incidents occur every month of the year in the White Mountains, the margin for safety is much lower when snow or ice covers most trails and nights are below freezing.

heading up Hale Brook Trail

This is the first year that my two little mountain goats want to climb peaks during the serious seasons. They have been back country skiing on some very cold days in past winters. But traversing the higher mountains is a different endeavor. I have been drilling them for a few weeks on my serious season mantra: "coming home with your fingers and toes is required, reaching the peak is optional". The vital part is learning to evaluate options while out on a trek.

With winter conditions coming fast to the White Mountains I expect that the Forrest Service will be closing the seasonal roads soon. This means that access to certain trail heads is gated off, and the routes to those peaks are longer. I scanned my son's list of remaining peaks last week to check for possible road closures. Based on access to trail heads we decided to attempt the Hale and Zealand loop on Sunday. I realized that this is a long route, but I hoped that an extra hour of sleep would have the kids charged up for a 13 mile day.

Even with an extra hour of sleep we somehow got off to a late start. Partially it was coordinating to bring the girl's little sister along too. Partially it was my lack of packing the night before. We got going onto the trail an hour later than I had planned. We did bring a bike to be able to shuttle down the Zealand road to the car at the Hale Brook Trail parking at the end of the trip. But with stashing the bike, driving back down to the other trail head, and gearing up all 3 kids, we didn't get on the trail until 10:00 a.m.

Crossing Hale Brook

The initial mile of the Hale Brook Trail was easy enough. At the first water crossing however we became aware that this might be a more difficult day than I had planned. The heavy rain during the week had swollen every creek in the mountains. Options for easy stepping were limited by the rushing water. The adults shared their trekking poles with the kids for safety at the higher water crossings. While the view of the Mt Hale col can be intimidating I was looking forward to getting across the creek for the last time and onto the ridge. Once we got up to the ridge the trail was coated with snow & ice. We passed a woman hiking solo who stopped to put on her trail spikes. We chose to bare boot the climb since the snow as thin and the ice avoidable.

The summit of Mt. Hale was fully dressed in winter white. We took a few pictures, added some layers, and ate a quick snack. We kept to our plan to have lunch at the Zealand hut, but it was already 11:30 when we started down the Lend A Hand Trail. We also found the going on this trail slower than expected. The snow quickly dissolved into a mix of thin ice, slush, and mud. In several sections we rock hopped over standing water on the trail. Still the ice was too thin for trail spikes even though some slabs were coverd. We slid down the trail carefully, sometimes on snow, sometimes on mud, sometimes on both. The sea-saw of Twig Season trail conditions was in full effect.

a little of everything on Lend A Hand Trail

We got to the Zealand Hut at quarter past one, much later than I expected. While the girl's mother and I checked the next high water crossing the kids checked out the hut. As soon as we sat down to lunch I pulled out the map to double check the distance to the Zealand Peak. I figured that even if my two mountain goats & I went quickly, with no more difficult conditions, we'd end up spending an hour in the dark on the walk out. I shared my calculation with the kids and gave them a choice, we make a dash for the peak at maximum effort or call it a day and comeback for Zealand another time. The two looked at each other and said coming back another day would be fine. They honestly seemed more relieved than disappointed. While we finished our lunch I overheard a man describe the trail conditions up to Zealand peak to his wife who had waited at the hut. He said that it was a slushy mess in sections and icy in others. I was glad the kids made the choice they did.

We enjoyed much easier footing on the Twin Way back to the Zealand Road trail head. The snow/slush/mud subsided and the trail was mostly dry. The sky was clearing and we could spot a few peaks down the notch. The kids laughed and played as we passed by the ponds. I was happy to ride the bike back to my car in the daylight. Most importantly the kids learned a vital lesson in mountain climbing, sometimes your agenda is thwarted by the conditions. When the weather or incidents turn your plans upside down it is best to know when to say when.

Almost Winter Already? Snow shoeing down from Mt. Pierce

Heading down from Mt. Pierce

As I've mentioned before, I estimate Northern New England has ten seasons: Winter, Thaw, Still Winter, Sugar, Mud, Black Fly, Tourist, Foliage, Twig (Shoulder), and Almost Winter. Last week I wrote about how I've learned to love Twig Season. I expected it would last another few weeks. But Mother Nature has other ideas about the length of our 9th season this year. Mount Washington got 15" of snow last Wednesday night and 29" for the week. Wildcat Ski area has enough for its earliest opening ever. But we are still a few days from Halloween. Its not really Almost Winter already, is it?

near the Pierce Juncture on Crawford Path

My two little mountain goats would not be deterred though by some early season snow. Both have been skiing since shortly after they could walk, so the idea of trekking up into winter conditions caused them more delight than concern. I on the other hand had plenty to be concerned about, mostly getting the winter gear out while piles of summer gear still cluttered the mud room. I spent a good part of Saturday afternoon sorting through puffy coats, shell pants, gaiters, snow shoes, trail spikes, fleece jackets, thermal bottles, winter gloves, balaclavas, & goggles. There may still be leaves on the lawn but at least half our winter wear is already accounted for. The first "serious season" trip to the mountains always causes me some equipment anxiety. That anxiety is double when it comes early and I'm taking my son up too.

I picked a route for Sunday that was modest but would get another 4k peak check off my son's list, Mount Pierce. The weather forecast indicated that rain showers would end early in the morning. The temperature up high would be cold enough to retain any new snow. The pictures of trail conditions on other peaks this week revealed deep snow any where drifts could form. I encountered 8"+ depth at the top on my mid week run up Tecumseh. I expected we should find at least that much and maybe more on the Crawford Path. But I also counted on the route to Mount Pierce being mostly sheltered and likely packed.

Deep Post Holes on Crawford Path

I was almost correct. My concern started on the drive up to Crawford Notch. The rain started as soon as we got in the car. It became heavier through Franconia Notch and did not let up much down past Bretton Woods. But as soon as we parked at the AMC Highland Center the drizzle slowed, we shouldered our packs, and headed across Rte 302 to Crawford Path. The lower section of the trail was a thin layer of slushy snow over soaked leaves. After a mile of slick hiking we found snow covering the entire trail and got out the spikes. Some folks had bare booted the entire climb as I could tell from their tread prints in the snow. But I was happy not to slip & slide up the trail. Still there was no ice, just deep soft snow above 2500 feet. The higher we went on Crawford Path the deeper the snow became. The last 1/2 a mile to the Mt. Pierce junction had drifts as deep as 2-3 feet. The kids learned the frustration of walking in OPP, Other Peoples Post holes. Once we made the turn to the Mt. Pierce summit the climbing was easy since the snow was scrubbed hard by the wind.

Already Almost Winter means snow shoes for trackless trails

The morning precipitation and just above freezing temperature meant no views all day. The entire valley was shrouded in snow fog. So we did not linger on Mount Pierce. The kids decided that descending the trackless Mizpah trail would be better than going back down through the post holes on Crawford Path. We switched out trail spikes for snow shoes and readied ourselves for adventure. I broke trail for the first 2/3rds of a mile. The soft snow meant slow going. When we came to the long descent the kids asked to lead. They were all smiles as they slid down the steeper pitches. Both wished they had skis even on these modest slopes. We then talked about our excitement for the ski season to come; which friends will be on the Middle School Nordic team, where we might go back country skinning, what new places we might explore this winter. We were so enthralled by our conversation that we made it down to the Mizpah Hut in no time. On the trail down to Crawford Path we found some dangerous "orange snow", where water is running under full snow cover turning the surface orange. Falling through a patch of this weak surface means soaked boots & pants at best. We also found a very very slow moving toad in the middle of the trail. It seemed that it had been caught out by the early snow fall. We hoped it would find a burrow to hibernate in after we left.

nearly frozen toad on the Mizpah Trail

Once we reached Crawford Path we had a snack and took off our snow shoes. The last two miles back would be too thin to need them. The kids had fun "boot skiing" down some of the slick patches on the descent. While they were frustrated with the slow pace going up, they were all giggles sliding down from our taste of winter on Mount Pierce. I expect a few warm weeks ahead to finish Twig Season chores, yet I was happy to see some deep snow up high too. Almost Winter may not have reached the valleys, but above treeline it's already here. 

Neither Here nor There: Shoulder Season in the Mountains

snow on the mountain over foliage in the valley

Some visitors like New England for the sharp contrast between the four seasons Winter Spring Summer & fall. Folks living here, especially in the mountains, know that New England has much more than those. By my estimation the White Mountains have roughly ten seasons. Each has it's challenges and charms, defined by the substantial shift in weather or daylight. Now is the time when Foliage Season is over but Almost Winter has not yet begun. We are in the 9th season of the year, Shoulder Season.

The trails this time of year are a mixed bag. Gone are the dry hero dirt days of summer. The remnants of foliage season lay half strewn on the ground. Up high the first snow & ice flows can be found. Walking the trails takes extra concentration. The transition from slick leaves to mud to ice happens in a few short steps some days. The most surprising bit is "brown ice" when a wet mud section freezes just solid enough to walk & fall on. In these conditions I always go with poles since slippery trails with no traction devices is a recipe for knee surgery.

"brown ice" lurking on the trail

Dressing for shoulder season is just as tricky. Will it be a light shirt and shorts day in the sunshine? Or will it be snowing sideways on the summit? I don't want to put away the summer clothes, and once in a while during this season I might get to wear them. But this is also the time to get out the down parka, the alpine weight pants, the heavy hard shell jacket, winter gloves and goggles. The toughest days are when it is still almost summer at the trail head, and almost winter at the summit. I sometimes consider using my 65 liter backpack to carry all the layers I might need on a shoulder season day hike. The packing alone can be exhausting.

1st snow on the trail for the season

But this is also a wonderful time to be in the mountains. The leaves are falling away which allows for views of the peaks from lower down on the trail. The crowds thin out rapidly as fair weather hikers decide to stay home. The first glimpses of snow make me excited for the ski season to come. The still autumn conditions in the valley and almost winter conditions at the summits permit me to enjoy both in a single day.

When I first moved to New Hampshire I disliked the grey & rust color landscape in "twig season", the other name for this time of year. But now I embrace the duality of it. This is the season for finishing the harvest that just was and hoping for the joys of winter that is about to be. So don your gaiters and dig out your cold weather gear, dear reader. Enjoy the mud & twigs & falling leaves this Shoulder Season. With all the snow falling on the peaks this week Almost Winter might be almost here.

the 10 Essentials Myth: basic equipment for White Mountain adventures

The 10 essentials is a myth. It is a tale told many different ways, all with similar elements, but all missing the truth. Every outdoor organization and retailer posts a version of the 10 essentials. Most are incomplete. For example, the US Forrest Service and NH Fish & Game have a decent list on their Hike Safe site, but it leaves out a few key items. It divides some categories but combines others (map & compass are on separate lines, food & water are combined). Outdoor retailers, who I would think want to sell more stuff, often forget important items.  For example, EMS (a store I shop at regularly) leaves off their list emergency shelter, rain gear, and sanitation. Several other retailers (REI, Campmor, Sierra Trading Post) simply copy the list from well known outdoor manuals. Most of those leave gaps. Even the seminal book on wilderness travel "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills" misses the mark by my estimation; rain gear is not listed, neither is a whistle or phone.

the "classic 10" according to REI

The truth, in my view, is there are not 10 essentials, there are 12.


The 12 essentials are:

1) Hydration: water and a purification system
2) Nutrition: food for the hike & an emergency stash
3) Navigation: compass & map and/or GPS device
4) Communication: emergency whistle and/or mobile phone and/or satellite tracker
5) Protection: rain shell, sunscreen, sunglasses
6) Insulation: warm hat, spare base layer, socks, & mid layer
7) Illumination: head lamp and/or flash light
8) Combustion: matches in waterproof case
9) Medication: basic 1st Aid kit
10) Remediation: knife or multi tool, cord, duct tape
11) Habitation: emergency blanket or bivy shelter
12) Sanitation: trowel, wipes, & baggies.

While this may seem like a lot of stuff, I can fit compact versions of each into a Camelbak on trail runs. My usual day hike bag is a 20L pack. I fit robust versions of all these items with room to spare. My 11 year old son carries the full set in his 16L kids pack. I am so serious about the list that I posted it in our mud room above where the packs hang.

My 12 essentials list above the day packs

I am certain the authors of the various 10 essentials lists could quibble with mine. For example, could hydration & nutrition be combined? Sure, but I list them separately because water is not food and food is not water. You may need to purify water if you run dry, and that deserves it's own consideration. Is sanitation always necessary? It is when you need to go and don't want dysentery. I won't use an emergency shelter on most trips, but I wouldn't like to spend a night out without one. That is the whole point of this list. Things happen on the trail, things that may keep you in the woods until the next morning. A quick day hike could become an all night ordeal with a single slip and a broken ankle. I would want each & every item on my 12 essentials list if I were stuck in the mountains for 24 hours.

My typical summer all day kit

Neither the original 10 nor my 12 essentials is a magic totem. Merely carrying a full pack into the wilderness will not guarantee anyone's safety. First one must know when and how to use the equipment. A map offers no help to a hiker who cannot read it. A headlamp is only as good as it's batteries. More importantly one must decide when to use each item. I've witnessed folks get to a breezy summit and neglect to put on a hat or layers until their lips turn blue. The time to don a rain shell is when the drizzle starts, not when one is already drenched. On the other hand, sweating inside a shell jacket after the rain stops is as poor as leaving it at home. Good judgement is more important than carrying the proper gear. I have read plenty of accounts of experienced & equipped people who failed to make timely decisions and paid dearly for their mistakes.

My 11 y.o. son's typical kit

I realize some folk can get by with out many of these items. A few very skilled people like Tom Brown Jr. can walk into the woods with nothing but a knife and keep warm, fed, & comfortable for weeks. But most people will never know how to make a bow drill fire, or an adequate brush shelter, or a game trap out of twigs, much less a solar still for purifying water. That level of bush craft is far beyond what 99.9% of Americans will ever realize.  My list is for the typical civilized somewhat skilled hiker. I simply seek to survive a long cold night in the wilderness if that is my fate.

Also understand that the list posted above is for summer day hiking. If I am on a backpacking trip some listed items are redundant (like an emergency shelter when I am carrying a tent). If I am hiking in winter or "shoulder season" then additional gear is required. At very least more substantial types of insulation, combustion, & protection are needed. But for a fair weather warm season day trip this is my list. I do not wish to start an argument with those who believe in their 10 essentials list. If that set gets one safely in & out of the wilderness then I find no fault. I only hope that my list may inspire you, dear reader, to consider how you might more securely travel the back country on your next adventures.

The Joy of Slow Going: a whole family all day walk to Mt. Carrigain

Signal Ridge from Mt. Carrigain

When working on a list of peaks we are tempted to go fast. Most folks inevitably get in a rush to reach as many summits as possible on a given day or route. Trail running on mountain paths has only increased our need for speed. Yet something can be lost in relentless drive to rush through the wilderness. The woods and hills are often filled with subtle features that get overlooked while charging up the trail. I find the best way to slow down and look for these hidden gems is to hike at a 8 year old's pace, usually by walking with an 8 year old.

If you've read these posts before you are aware that I typically hike with "my two little mountain goats". The truth is that only one is mine. The boy is my son, the girl is our neighbor and his best friend. The girl has a younger sister (age 8) and a younger brother (age 3). Her parents and I decided that Sunday would be a good day for all of us to go into the woods together. My wife then wanted to come along as well. So all of us, 4 adults and 4 kids loaded into their van early on Sunday for a trip to Mt. Carrigain.

heading up the middle of Signal Ridge Trail

Taking a group this large and of such wide range in age/ability requires extra packing and extra patience. Not everyone can bare their full load, especially when one adult carries a toddler most of the way. Not everyone needs a break or a snack at the same time, but ultimately the wisdom of the herd prevails. We all choose to go along to get along when it seems like time for a rest. I believe the key to enjoying the slow pace of a family hike is to appreciate both the company & the surroundings.

looking up to Mt. Carrigain from Signal Ridge

I was reminded this week of a John Muir quote. He disparaged the notion of traveling through the wilderness at speed at all. Reportedly he stated: “I don't like either the word [hike] or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not 'hike!' Do you know the origin of that word saunter? It's a beautiful word. Away back in the middle ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going they would reply, 'A la sainte terre', 'To the Holy Land.' And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not 'hike' through them.”

first snow of the season

We do not know precisely how Muir came to this opinion. He may have been inspired by Henry David Thoreau's essay "Walking" where he stated "So we saunter toward the Holy Land, till one day the sun shall shine more brightly than ever he has done, shall perchance shine into our minds and hearts, and light up our whole lives with a great awakening light, as warm and serene and golden as on a bankside in autumn". Indeed the entire theme of "Walking" is that we are enriched by spending time in the wilderness without aim or objective. Simply to remove ourselves from society for a day, to surrender to our wildness, is to find a substantial peace & joy. Or as Thoreau says himself  "For I believe that climate does thus react on man- as there is something in the mountain- air that feds the spirit and inspires."

mountain top naps are the best naps

In truth the only way to teach children a reverence for nature, is to revere it with them. The best way to revere it is to go into the wild with our children & adopt their perspective. All eight of us spent our Sunday morning kicking through autumn leaves and spotting curiously shaped trees. We were thrilled to find the first snow of the season when we climbed above 3500 feet. We reveled in the spectacular views of the Presidential range and Webster Cliff at the open ridge line. We were amazed at the 360 degree view of the mountains on the fire tower. We lingered over lunch and enjoyed a nap on the mountain top. We met new friends on the trail. We feed the gray jays before heading down. On the long slow walk back to Sawyer River Road we sang songs and ate chocolate to keep our fatigue away.

hiking out the last mile together

We got home half an hour after dark. It was a wonderful day in the woods.