Hiking the Hancocks: how far we'll go for One Great View

The Hancock loop is a route saved for dreary days by some White Mountain peak baggers. I understand why. The summit of South Hancock is entirely tree covered. The traverse between the two peaks has few look outs. The climb & descent are steep but short, so better than more exposed trails on a wet day. But hikers who never go up the Hancock's on a clear day are missing out. North Hancock peak has one of the best views in White Mountains.

at the Juncture on the Hancock Loop

My two little mountain goats were eager to hike last Saturday. After all it was a weekend, the weather was fair, and they have a list of peaks to climb. We packed up Friday night, got a (somewhat) early start at 8 in the morning, and arrived at the trail head to claim the last paved parking spot. Since we live easy driving distance to most of the trail heads I can pick & choose our peaks. The forecast called for 40 mph winds with 60+ mph gusts above treeline, no place for less than 70 lb youngsters to be on a long hike. I decided the Hancock Loop would keep us in the trees and out of the wind.

heading up along Cedar Creek

The trail into the Hancock loop makes the hike seem deceptively easy. The first 3 miles is an almost straight path along Cedar Creek. It is the remnant of the logging railway that moved timber to Lincoln 100 years ago. The kids charged up the trail at a swift 3.5 mph pace for the first few miles. But this route does get harder, first it is the tangles of roots across the trail, then the path gets rocky, and finally on the Hancock loop proper it gets steep. Indeed either direction on the Hancock loop the trail becomes very steep very suddenly, climbing 1200 feet in less than a mile. We chose the shorter way to the ridge by going up to South Hancock. The top is entirely tree covered. But we did find something interesting on the traverse to North Hancock. I've never seen a tree so entirely hollowed out and still standing.

the hollowed out tree on the Hancock traverse

The traverse itself was an easy walk by White Mountain standards. The wind was strong enough even in the trees that we put on layers & hats. We reached the North Hancock summit quicker than I expected. We took the short walk down to the look out for the big pay off. The view from those granite boulders is as nice as it gets below tree line. The panorama of Chocorua to the east, then the Tripryamids, Sandwich Dome peaking over the top, and Oseo & Flume to the west is delightful. But the best part of the view is the Osceola Ridge in the center. The slides and gullies of this ridge make for a dramatic sight. The beautiful ridge line is a hidden gem, not apparent from many places. The Osceola's are visable at the trail head parking, but I find a view is always better when you've worked for it. We lingered eating our lunch, enjoying both the sights and the sunshine.

a view of the Osceola Ridge

The way down from North Hancock was just as steep as the way up. Much new stone made the path slide prone but also saves it from erosion. When we got back to the upper part of Cedar Creek my son took a "cairn building" break. After that my two little mountain goats ran ahead to enjoy some pre-teen gossip without parental eaves dropping. Our quick hike out to the Hancock's was certainly worthwhile. Would I go again just for the one great view of the Osceola's? Absolutely 

cairn building practice

the Other Side of Franconia: Hiking the Kinsman Ridge to Cannon Mountain

Last weekend my son & I spent a glorious weather day hiking the Franconia Ridge loop. This weekend in his quest to complete the White Mountain 4000 footers we hiked the other side of Franconia Notch, Cannon Mountain to the Kinsmans. It was a good (and painful) reminder of how stiff long days in the White Mountains can be. While my little mountain goat skipped ahead I was often hobbled with sore knees. But let me begin at the beginning.

We started the day with our now usual weekend routine: organize day packs the night before, eat an early breakfast, check the weather one last time (a quick stop for a cup of coffee for Dad) and drive to the trailhead before 8 a.m. The two sides of Franconia Notch could not be more different. Instead of hiking off the parking lot almost straight onto trail, the west side requires going through Lafayette campground before hitting the trail. Instead of multiple brook crossings and falls, the Lonesome Lake trail is a steep walk in the woods. Instead of feeling crowded on the ascent, we only passed 4 groups on our entire hike up. The Hi Cannon Trail is steeper than Falling Waters. Sadly it has also been severely eroded by the heavy storms the past two years. We passed several washed out spots where roots dangled from under cut dirt ledges. But once we got above the first look out and the ladder on the Hi Cannon trail, the grade slackened and the trail was in better shape. The boy had to check out the scariest view spot in the Notch. Midway on the Hi Cannon trail a down angle slab leads to sheer drop. It feels to me like you are going to roll off Cannon Cliff standing anywhere on it.

Once we reached the loop trail at the top of Cannon Mountain we had a snack and climbed the observation tower. The top of the tower gave us nice views as the morning fog was just about burned away from Mt. Lafayette and Lincoln. This was also the only spot all day where the breeze cooled us down enough to add a layer. Coming down the first Cannon Ball we hit the steep rocky technical terrain that are infamous in the White Mountains. Less than 1/2 a mile into the descent we crossed paths with a German (?) couple that we had seen at the top of Cannon. They asked if the rest of the trail was this difficult. I said not all, but it would continue to be challenging for a while. They did not look very happy at my answer. I was starting to be unhappy myself as both knees were swelling on the descent.

The Cannonballs did get easier as we traversed south. But they do grind away at a hikers legs before getting to Kinsman Pond. By the time we got there my son need a bio break, and I needed a rest. While the climb up to North Kinsman is not demanding by White Mountain standards, the miles and demands of the route were apparent in my pace. We enjoyed a long lunch break on North Kinsman. I marveled at the great view of the Franconia Ridge. The whole route is a tour of Mt. Lafayette views. It's good to keep looking at the same beautiful mountain from different spots for a day. The final climb of the day to South Kinsman went quicker than I expected. We now only had the hike back to the bottom of Franconia Notch ahead.

The Franconia Ridge see from North Kinsman

Memory is a funny thing. I normally remember trails in detail. I vaguely recalled the descent from the Kinsman's as pleasant hard pack dirt. What I was recalling was the Lonesome Lake Trail, not the Fishing Jimmy Trail. The later is steeper, rockier, and filled with cut slab face steps. My sore knees were less than happy with this descent. While my son ran ahead of me, I limped carefully down the trail. Not carefully enough as I jammed my left foot on a down step, bruising my big toe (I hope I don't lose the toenail). At long last the Lonesome Lake hut came into view. We were gifted one last amazing view of Mt. Lafayette. This view alone made the hike worthwhile.

Mt. Lafayette from Lonesome Lake

Truly the west side of Franconia Notch is the polar opposite of the east side. Where the east side is exposed alpine terrain, the west side undulates in the woods. Where the Franconia ridge presents it's challenges in an obvious way, the Cannon Balls hide their difficulty until one is in the middle of them. Where the descent to Greenleaf is an open scree field, the hike down Fishing Jimmy is a winding set of stairs and steep dirt. The two sides combine to present all that is wonderful & difficult in hiking the White Mountains.

The Most Beautiful Hike in New England: the Franconia Ridge Loop

the Franconia Ridge Trail to Mt. Lafayette

I am not the first person to consider the Franconia Ridge loop, the trail to Little Haystack, over Mt. Lincoln & Mt. Lafayette and back down, as the best hike in the White Mountains. Only the Presidential Traverse gets as much publicity as this route. Recently National Geographic  deemed this hike one of the 10 best in the world, the lone US east coast trail on that list. So why all the praise?

Anyone who has hiked this route on a clear day can tell you, it is the views. The sight of the Kinsman Ridge & Cannon Cliff to the west, the Presidential Ridge and the Twins to the east, looking down into the Pemi Wilderness on one side and Franconia Notch on the other, the view of the trail itself from the high points, it is all gorgeous. I easily spend an extra hour taking photos on this route when the sky is clear. But the Franconia Ridge is not the only hike in the White Mountains with spectacular views. And the views from the top are not the only reason this is the most beautiful hike.

Swiftwater Falls

The sights going up and coming down are awesome too. If you hike this route the most popular way, up Falling Waters Trail and down the Old Bridle Path Trail, then you get to enjoy Swiftwater & Cloudland Falls, and a quick diversion to Shining Rock before getting to tree line. On the way back from the Lafayette summit you have a nice look at Cannon Cliff and Echo Lake, then half way down the trail a perfect view back up at the Franconia Ridge itself. All this lovely scenery is packed into a 8.5 mile loop. Every half an hour of hiking leads to another scenic spot. It can be too much to take in on the first time around.

Shining Rock

But it is not just the scenic beauty. The hike is challenging without being over whelming. The ascent is stiff at 2500 feet of climbing, but it is never exposed and only lasts 2.5 miles. The traverse is narrow but not perilous. A couple of scrambles up to Mt. Lincoln and Lafayette add to the challenge, but they are not long or difficult. Alpine terrain is rare on the east coast, and 2 miles on the Franconia Ridge is a treat. The descent is demanding in sections but reasonable, especially when broken up with a rest stop at the Greenleaf Hut. Each time I've descended back to Franconia Notch I feel like I've accomplished something.

Hiking down to the Greenleaf Hut

And it's the accessibility of this hike. The trail head is an exit off I-93. It is 140 miles from Boston and 180 miles from Montreal, an easy drive from each. I have no wonder why the trail head parking is full by 8:00 a.m. every fair weather summer weekend (and most of the fall too). I've been distressed at how many cars are parked on the side of the highway the past 3 years. The State Park Service now has a shuttle from the parking lot at the Cannon Tramway. Hopefully the shuttle will become more utilized in the near future. When we arrived at 8:45 last weekend I got the very last spot on the grass along the campground access road. That accessibility has it's down side too. Weekends are crowded both at the trail head and on the ascent. I picked up more litter in the dip between Little Haystack and Mt. Lincoln last Saturday than I've ever seen on a high trail. For those that like solitude this route should be avoided until late in the fall. Hiking the Franconia Ridge in winter requires an entire other level of skill & equipment. Even folks with extensive hiking experience have been caught out on this ridge to their doom.


But mostly this hike is beautiful for it's amazing scenery. So I hope you enjoy viewing these pictures as much as I did taking them. Truly they only capture a glimpse of the beauty apparent in these mountains. Looking at them makes me eager to get up there again.

Mt. Lafayette ahead

traversing the Franconia Ridge Trail

the Franconia Ridge trail looking south to Liberty & Flume

The west ridge of Mt. Lincoln

Cannon Cliff and the Kinsmans

Mt. Lafayette from the Greenleaf Trail

The Hard Way to Half Way: hiking the Willey Range from the bottom

Many of us like a challenge. We wouldn't attempt to hike all 48 of the New Hampshire 4000'ers if we did not. But there are easier and harder ways to climb some peaks. I had never hiked the Kedron Flume trail before last weekend. I had passed by it going through Crawford Notch dozens of times. But every time I hiked the Willey Range or Mt. Avalon in the past I started from Crawford Station at the top of the notch. So why not give a different route a whirl. How hard could it be?

1st mile done, now for the hard part

I was aware that this would be a steeper start than Crawford Station. Looking up from the Willey House site the ridge line towers above on both sides. The site and the ridge are named for the Willey family who died when a torrential flood washed them away in 1826. I can easily picture water & boulders thundering down those slopes during a heavy storm. Since my son wanted to hike the Willey Range and my wife wanted to meet us near the end, I set the route from the bottom of Crawford Notch.

Up we go on the steep climb to Mt. Willey

The first mile and half up past Kedron Flume was a pleasant ascent. We curled around the switchbacks in the woods and across the railroad tracks to the brook. Once we joined the Ethan Pond trail for a short stretch we meet a few backpackers hiking out to Crawford Notch. After a quarter mile on the AT we turned onto the Willey Ridge trail. There we began to climb, and climb, and then climb some more. We went from step dirt trail, to boulder scrambling, to slabs, to a long series of ladders, and back to more boulders. This may not be the steepest trail in the White Mountains, but gaining 1600 feet in 3/4's of a mile is steep enough. Add to this the fact that summer heat & humidity were still blanketing the woods. By the time we got to the crest of Mt Willey I was drenched with sweat and ready for a nap.

We found nice views along the ridge

Some say that good views are limited on the Willey Range. While agree it is easier to see scenic vistas on other ridges, we still found several good look outs. Originally I picked this route because the weather forecast called for overcast skies. But we had nice views of the Wildcat Range and the Webster Slide from Mt. Willey. Traversing the ridge was almost an easy stroll compared to the initial climb. We had a good long sit on Mt. Field before racing down to meet Mom at the A-Z Trail juncture. Nicholas decided to trail run the mile descent while I took a more cautious approach. Truthfully hiking without poles for the first time this summer was straining my knees a little.

Webster Slide and the Carter Range 

After we met Mom & shared our lunch with the gray jays on the A-Z trail, we began the short climb to Mt. Tom. Since this is an easy route from Crawford Notch it is a popular day hike. Since it was Labor Day weekend we passed several groups both heading up & down. Some of these day hikers appeared to be carrying far less than the 10 essentials. But each was greeted with a smile and wave by us. The more distressing part of popular routes is finding litter at the summit. Indeed I spotted a few wads of toilet paper less than a yard into the bushes on top of Mt. Tom. The "Pack it In, Pack it Out" ethic has not made an impact on every hiker yet. 

How much further?

The objective of the day was met. The boy reached peak #24 of the White Mountain 4000 footers, half way to all of them. We trotted back down the A-Z and Avalon Trail to Crawford Notch. We admired the extensive trail work done to repair damage from last falls storms. It looked as if a mini excavator had been brought up for some of the trail. By the time we reached the rail tracks my feet were surprisingly sore & I was out of water. For only an 8 mile, 5 hour hike this route was taxing. We were all happy to duck into the Highland Center for cold drinks & snacks. Mom drove us down Crawford Notch to my car. Looking up at the beautiful view of the Willey Range and Mt. Avalon from the bottom I realized how far this "little" day hike took us. Sometimes the hard way is the best way.

Presi Days are Must Go Days

Stop what you're doing and go hiking on Presi Days

Mountain folk in New England regularly track 2 weather forecasts, their local conditions & the Mount Washington summit. The MWOBS higher summit forecast gives a good idea of the conditions on the Presidentials & the surrounding ridges. While the weather may be fair in the valley, above tree line in the White Mountains is an entirely different world. I've seen 70F and calm on the drive up through Lincoln become 45F and 50 mph winds on top of the Franconia Ridge. Once in a while though the conditions in the higher peaks are perfect; warm, clear, & light breeze. Those days are called "Presi Days" since they are the best chance to climb the Presidentials.

over the brook on the Amonoosuc Ravine Trail

My son, his best friend, & I had just finished backpacking the Carter-Wildcat Ridges over 3 days on Tuesday. But the weather forecast from MWOBS for Saturday was almost perfect, low 60's & 10 mph wind on the summit. It looked like a model Presi Day. Three days out I planned a short hike to Mt. Jefferson via the Caps Ridge Trail. Then my wife said she might want to come so I figured she could shuttle the car and I could hike both Jefferson & Washington with the kids. But on Saturday she was not feeling up to it, so we decided to hike both on our own. It would be the kids longest day hike & biggest day above tree line ever.

Last mile to Mt. Washington

We got to the Cog Railway parking lot a little past 8 a.m. I decided to pay for a parking spot rather than have the kids hike an additional 1/3 of a mile on each end. This turned out to be a very good choice. In fact the regular Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail parking area was already full. I expected the smaller Cap Ridge trail head would be the same. Presi days bring out everyone who loves to be in the high mountains. We passed over a dozen other hikers as we ascended the first few miles of the Ammonoosuc trail. Though plenty of folks headed out this day we did not feel crowded on the trails. Past the Gem pool the humidity & ascent made me drip sweat. But the kids just hopped up the steep sections like little mountain goats do. We stopped in at Lake of the Clouds hut for a quick break. The kids lingered looking through the log book and new decor on the walls. Several day hikers were also resting there. But again it was not crowded. We passed a few more heading up the last mile to Mt. Washington.

the Cog heading back from the summit

The rock pile on a fair weather day can be overwhelming. Coming around the towers and into the visitors center is a shock in high season, going from an alpine trail to civilization in just a few steps. We got to the top before noon, but there was already a small crowd, a 10 minute line to take a picture with the Mt. Washington summit sign. The first Cog railway trains had unloaded and the auto road was open. Tourists in designer clothes & flip flops were lined up for selfies. While the top was not packed yet I want to move on. The kids however got lost in the gift shop searching for trinkets. Eventually I managed to collect them, fill up on water, and head off from Mt. Washington.

heading down the rock pile to Mt. Clay

The Great Gulf view of the northern Presi's

Once we were half a mile down the scree field the crowd at the top was forgotten. Again we passed a dozen or so other hikers but not so many that we felt hindered. The views into the Great Gulf from the saddle between Mt. Washington and Mt. Clay were spectacular. We scrambled up to the summit of Mt. Clay for lunch. We almost had the top to ourselves but a young couple were also enjoying a sit down against a boulder. We scrambled down the Gulf Side Trail after lunch toward Mt. Jefferson. The 35 miles in our legs for the week was starting to wear. Each of us could only hike our own pace not slowing or speeding up to match another. Yet we climbed up to the summit cairn within reasonable distance of each other. We took a long rest at the top. It was good to be in the sunshine above treeline on such a fair day.

packing up on Mt. Jefferson

starting the long walk back down

Happy as we were to be on top of Mt. Jefferson, I knew we had a long walk back to the car. Even though we would go around Mt. Clay on the return there was still a bit of climbing up the side of the rock pile. We turned onto the Jewel Trail just behind several groups of older hikers. The kids skipped ahead of them while I begged their forgiveness. Although the Jewell trail is considered the "easier" way down from Mt. Washington, there are no truly easy hikes in the Presi's. The first mile down this trail is steep and rocky. I caught a toe stepping down a boulder section and nearly tumbled to tree line. Luckily a few scrapes was all the damage done. After a short sit we were back to hiking. The last two miles were a slog. The kids were at the limit of their endurance after 6+ hours of hard terrain. We sang made up songs, discussed Harry Potter plot points, and nibbled at our remaining snacks to keep moving. After 7 hours of hiking time and 9 hours total since leaving the car we rock hopped over the brook and back to the Cog base station. All I had to show for it was sore legs, a slight sunburn, and the mile wide smile from spending my 1st Presi Day with my son. I can't wait for the next one.

back to the Cog Railway Station and done for the day