Almost Winter Already? Snow shoeing down from Mt. Pierce

Heading down from Mt. Pierce

As I've mentioned before, I estimate Northern New England has ten seasons: Winter, Thaw, Still Winter, Sugar, Mud, Black Fly, Tourist, Foliage, Twig (Shoulder), and Almost Winter. Last week I wrote about how I've learned to love Twig Season. I expected it would last another few weeks. But Mother Nature has other ideas about the length of our 9th season this year. Mount Washington got 15" of snow last Wednesday night and 29" for the week. Wildcat Ski area has enough for its earliest opening ever. But we are still a few days from Halloween. Its not really Almost Winter already, is it?

near the Pierce Juncture on Crawford Path

My two little mountain goats would not be deterred though by some early season snow. Both have been skiing since shortly after they could walk, so the idea of trekking up into winter conditions caused them more delight than concern. I on the other hand had plenty to be concerned about, mostly getting the winter gear out while piles of summer gear still cluttered the mud room. I spent a good part of Saturday afternoon sorting through puffy coats, shell pants, gaiters, snow shoes, trail spikes, fleece jackets, thermal bottles, winter gloves, balaclavas, & goggles. There may still be leaves on the lawn but at least half our winter wear is already accounted for. The first "serious season" trip to the mountains always causes me some equipment anxiety. That anxiety is double when it comes early and I'm taking my son up too.

I picked a route for Sunday that was modest but would get another 4k peak check off my son's list, Mount Pierce. The weather forecast indicated that rain showers would end early in the morning. The temperature up high would be cold enough to retain any new snow. The pictures of trail conditions on other peaks this week revealed deep snow any where drifts could form. I encountered 8"+ depth at the top on my mid week run up Tecumseh. I expected we should find at least that much and maybe more on the Crawford Path. But I also counted on the route to Mount Pierce being mostly sheltered and likely packed.

Deep Post Holes on Crawford Path

I was almost correct. My concern started on the drive up to Crawford Notch. The rain started as soon as we got in the car. It became heavier through Franconia Notch and did not let up much down past Bretton Woods. But as soon as we parked at the AMC Highland Center the drizzle slowed, we shouldered our packs, and headed across Rte 302 to Crawford Path. The lower section of the trail was a thin layer of slushy snow over soaked leaves. After a mile of slick hiking we found snow covering the entire trail and got out the spikes. Some folks had bare booted the entire climb as I could tell from their tread prints in the snow. But I was happy not to slip & slide up the trail. Still there was no ice, just deep soft snow above 2500 feet. The higher we went on Crawford Path the deeper the snow became. The last 1/2 a mile to the Mt. Pierce junction had drifts as deep as 2-3 feet. The kids learned the frustration of walking in OPP, Other Peoples Post holes. Once we made the turn to the Mt. Pierce summit the climbing was easy since the snow was scrubbed hard by the wind.

Already Almost Winter means snow shoes for trackless trails

The morning precipitation and just above freezing temperature meant no views all day. The entire valley was shrouded in snow fog. So we did not linger on Mount Pierce. The kids decided that descending the trackless Mizpah trail would be better than going back down through the post holes on Crawford Path. We switched out trail spikes for snow shoes and readied ourselves for adventure. I broke trail for the first 2/3rds of a mile. The soft snow meant slow going. When we came to the long descent the kids asked to lead. They were all smiles as they slid down the steeper pitches. Both wished they had skis even on these modest slopes. We then talked about our excitement for the ski season to come; which friends will be on the Middle School Nordic team, where we might go back country skinning, what new places we might explore this winter. We were so enthralled by our conversation that we made it down to the Mizpah Hut in no time. On the trail down to Crawford Path we found some dangerous "orange snow", where water is running under full snow cover turning the surface orange. Falling through a patch of this weak surface means soaked boots & pants at best. We also found a very very slow moving toad in the middle of the trail. It seemed that it had been caught out by the early snow fall. We hoped it would find a burrow to hibernate in after we left.

nearly frozen toad on the Mizpah Trail

Once we reached Crawford Path we had a snack and took off our snow shoes. The last two miles back would be too thin to need them. The kids had fun "boot skiing" down some of the slick patches on the descent. While they were frustrated with the slow pace going up, they were all giggles sliding down from our taste of winter on Mount Pierce. I expect a few warm weeks ahead to finish Twig Season chores, yet I was happy to see some deep snow up high too. Almost Winter may not have reached the valleys, but above treeline it's already here. 

Neither Here nor There: Shoulder Season in the Mountains

snow on the mountain over foliage in the valley

Some visitors like New England for the sharp contrast between the four seasons Winter Spring Summer & fall. Folks living here, especially in the mountains, know that New England has much more than those. By my estimation the White Mountains have roughly ten seasons. Each has it's challenges and charms, defined by the substantial shift in weather or daylight. Now is the time when Foliage Season is over but Almost Winter has not yet begun. We are in the 9th season of the year, Shoulder Season.

The trails this time of year are a mixed bag. Gone are the dry hero dirt days of summer. The remnants of foliage season lay half strewn on the ground. Up high the first snow & ice flows can be found. Walking the trails takes extra concentration. The transition from slick leaves to mud to ice happens in a few short steps some days. The most surprising bit is "brown ice" when a wet mud section freezes just solid enough to walk & fall on. In these conditions I always go with poles since slippery trails with no traction devices is a recipe for knee surgery.

"brown ice" lurking on the trail

Dressing for shoulder season is just as tricky. Will it be a light shirt and shorts day in the sunshine? Or will it be snowing sideways on the summit? I don't want to put away the summer clothes, and once in a while during this season I might get to wear them. But this is also the time to get out the down parka, the alpine weight pants, the heavy hard shell jacket, winter gloves and goggles. The toughest days are when it is still almost summer at the trail head, and almost winter at the summit. I sometimes consider using my 65 liter backpack to carry all the layers I might need on a shoulder season day hike. The packing alone can be exhausting.

1st snow on the trail for the season

But this is also a wonderful time to be in the mountains. The leaves are falling away which allows for views of the peaks from lower down on the trail. The crowds thin out rapidly as fair weather hikers decide to stay home. The first glimpses of snow make me excited for the ski season to come. The still autumn conditions in the valley and almost winter conditions at the summits permit me to enjoy both in a single day.

When I first moved to New Hampshire I disliked the grey & rust color landscape in "twig season", the other name for this time of year. But now I embrace the duality of it. This is the season for finishing the harvest that just was and hoping for the joys of winter that is about to be. So don your gaiters and dig out your cold weather gear, dear reader. Enjoy the mud & twigs & falling leaves this Shoulder Season. With all the snow falling on the peaks this week Almost Winter might be almost here.

the 10 Essentials Myth: basic equipment for White Mountain adventures

The 10 essentials is a myth. It is a tale told many different ways, all with similar elements, but all missing the truth. Every outdoor organization and retailer posts a version of the 10 essentials. Most are incomplete. For example, the US Forrest Service and NH Fish & Game have a decent list on their Hike Safe site, but it leaves out a few key items. It divides some categories but combines others (map & compass are on separate lines, food & water are combined). Outdoor retailers, who I would think want to sell more stuff, often forget important items.  For example, EMS (a store I shop at regularly) leaves off their list emergency shelter, rain gear, and sanitation. Several other retailers (REI, Campmor, Sierra Trading Post) simply copy the list from well known outdoor manuals. Most of those leave gaps. Even the seminal book on wilderness travel "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills" misses the mark by my estimation; rain gear is not listed, neither is a whistle or phone.

the "classic 10" according to REI

The truth, in my view, is there are not 10 essentials, there are 12.


The 12 essentials are:

1) Hydration: water and a purification system
2) Nutrition: food for the hike & an emergency stash
3) Navigation: compass & map and/or GPS device
4) Communication: emergency whistle and/or mobile phone and/or satellite tracker
5) Protection: rain shell, sunscreen, sunglasses
6) Insulation: warm hat, spare base layer, socks, & mid layer
7) Illumination: head lamp and/or flash light
8) Combustion: matches in waterproof case
9) Medication: basic 1st Aid kit
10) Remediation: knife or multi tool, cord, duct tape
11) Habitation: emergency blanket or bivy shelter
12) Sanitation: trowel, wipes, & baggies.

While this may seem like a lot of stuff, I can fit compact versions of each into a Camelbak on trail runs. My usual day hike bag is a 20L pack. I fit robust versions of all these items with room to spare. My 11 year old son carries the full set in his 16L kids pack. I am so serious about the list that I posted it in our mud room above where the packs hang.

My 12 essentials list above the day packs

I am certain the authors of the various 10 essentials lists could quibble with mine. For example, could hydration & nutrition be combined? Sure, but I list them separately because water is not food and food is not water. You may need to purify water if you run dry, and that deserves it's own consideration. Is sanitation always necessary? It is when you need to go and don't want dysentery. I won't use an emergency shelter on most trips, but I wouldn't like to spend a night out without one. That is the whole point of this list. Things happen on the trail, things that may keep you in the woods until the next morning. A quick day hike could become an all night ordeal with a single slip and a broken ankle. I would want each & every item on my 12 essentials list if I were stuck in the mountains for 24 hours.

My typical summer all day kit

Neither the original 10 nor my 12 essentials is a magic totem. Merely carrying a full pack into the wilderness will not guarantee anyone's safety. First one must know when and how to use the equipment. A map offers no help to a hiker who cannot read it. A headlamp is only as good as it's batteries. More importantly one must decide when to use each item. I've witnessed folks get to a breezy summit and neglect to put on a hat or layers until their lips turn blue. The time to don a rain shell is when the drizzle starts, not when one is already drenched. On the other hand, sweating inside a shell jacket after the rain stops is as poor as leaving it at home. Good judgement is more important than carrying the proper gear. I have read plenty of accounts of experienced & equipped people who failed to make timely decisions and paid dearly for their mistakes.

My 11 y.o. son's typical kit

I realize some folk can get by with out many of these items. A few very skilled people like Tom Brown Jr. can walk into the woods with nothing but a knife and keep warm, fed, & comfortable for weeks. But most people will never know how to make a bow drill fire, or an adequate brush shelter, or a game trap out of twigs, much less a solar still for purifying water. That level of bush craft is far beyond what 99.9% of Americans will ever realize.  My list is for the typical civilized somewhat skilled hiker. I simply seek to survive a long cold night in the wilderness if that is my fate.

Also understand that the list posted above is for summer day hiking. If I am on a backpacking trip some listed items are redundant (like an emergency shelter when I am carrying a tent). If I am hiking in winter or "shoulder season" then additional gear is required. At very least more substantial types of insulation, combustion, & protection are needed. But for a fair weather warm season day trip this is my list. I do not wish to start an argument with those who believe in their 10 essentials list. If that set gets one safely in & out of the wilderness then I find no fault. I only hope that my list may inspire you, dear reader, to consider how you might more securely travel the back country on your next adventures.

The Joy of Slow Going: a whole family all day walk to Mt. Carrigain

Signal Ridge from Mt. Carrigain

When working on a list of peaks we are tempted to go fast. Most folks inevitably get in a rush to reach as many summits as possible on a given day or route. Trail running on mountain paths has only increased our need for speed. Yet something can be lost in relentless drive to rush through the wilderness. The woods and hills are often filled with subtle features that get overlooked while charging up the trail. I find the best way to slow down and look for these hidden gems is to hike at a 8 year old's pace, usually by walking with an 8 year old.

If you've read these posts before you are aware that I typically hike with "my two little mountain goats". The truth is that only one is mine. The boy is my son, the girl is our neighbor and his best friend. The girl has a younger sister (age 8) and a younger brother (age 3). Her parents and I decided that Sunday would be a good day for all of us to go into the woods together. My wife then wanted to come along as well. So all of us, 4 adults and 4 kids loaded into their van early on Sunday for a trip to Mt. Carrigain.

heading up the middle of Signal Ridge Trail

Taking a group this large and of such wide range in age/ability requires extra packing and extra patience. Not everyone can bare their full load, especially when one adult carries a toddler most of the way. Not everyone needs a break or a snack at the same time, but ultimately the wisdom of the herd prevails. We all choose to go along to get along when it seems like time for a rest. I believe the key to enjoying the slow pace of a family hike is to appreciate both the company & the surroundings.

looking up to Mt. Carrigain from Signal Ridge

I was reminded this week of a John Muir quote. He disparaged the notion of traveling through the wilderness at speed at all. Reportedly he stated: “I don't like either the word [hike] or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not 'hike!' Do you know the origin of that word saunter? It's a beautiful word. Away back in the middle ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going they would reply, 'A la sainte terre', 'To the Holy Land.' And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not 'hike' through them.”

first snow of the season

We do not know precisely how Muir came to this opinion. He may have been inspired by Henry David Thoreau's essay "Walking" where he stated "So we saunter toward the Holy Land, till one day the sun shall shine more brightly than ever he has done, shall perchance shine into our minds and hearts, and light up our whole lives with a great awakening light, as warm and serene and golden as on a bankside in autumn". Indeed the entire theme of "Walking" is that we are enriched by spending time in the wilderness without aim or objective. Simply to remove ourselves from society for a day, to surrender to our wildness, is to find a substantial peace & joy. Or as Thoreau says himself  "For I believe that climate does thus react on man- as there is something in the mountain- air that feds the spirit and inspires."

mountain top naps are the best naps

In truth the only way to teach children a reverence for nature, is to revere it with them. The best way to revere it is to go into the wild with our children & adopt their perspective. All eight of us spent our Sunday morning kicking through autumn leaves and spotting curiously shaped trees. We were thrilled to find the first snow of the season when we climbed above 3500 feet. We reveled in the spectacular views of the Presidential range and Webster Cliff at the open ridge line. We were amazed at the 360 degree view of the mountains on the fire tower. We lingered over lunch and enjoyed a nap on the mountain top. We met new friends on the trail. We feed the gray jays before heading down. On the long slow walk back to Sawyer River Road we sang songs and ate chocolate to keep our fatigue away.

hiking out the last mile together

We got home half an hour after dark. It was a wonderful day in the woods.

Chasing Twins: the inner view of the Pemi Wilderness Ridge

With holiday weekend and a Friday off school my two little mountain goats had only one thing in mind, backpacking to 4000 footers. Specifically they both have been looking for a chance to hike the Bonds. Since the routes into the east side of the Pemi Wilderness Ridge are long we decided the best shot at those peaks would be backpacking. With four days off for the kids and a favorable weather forecast this looked like the perfect chance.

afternoon glow through autumn colors

My original plan was to walk the long route up the Lincoln Woods trail on Friday to the Guyot Campsite, then traverse the north ridge of the Pemi Wilderness on Saturday to Garfield, and come out on Sunday down the Greenleaf Trail. But office life got in the way. Since I could not leave until noon, I reversed the route and we started up the Garfield Trail Friday afternoon. The woods were golden with bright sunshine beaming through the autumn leaves on our hike in. We dropped our gear at the Garfield Campsite for a run to the summit before sunset. At the top 3 south bound AT thru hikers were sitting against the fire tower foundation. We asked them about their journey and discussed the trail ahead but never asked their names. We got back to camp just in time to make dinner before dark. We met a twin brother & sister who were sleeping in the shelter that night named Sadie & Henry. They planned to take the same route as we were to Guyot on Saturday. I was amused at the coincidence. People we meet on the trail often ask me how old "the kids" are, when I say they're both 11 folks assume they're twins. Now we were hiking with actual twins.

the sunset view from Mt. Garfield

Friday night was cold. It was the first below freezing night we've slept out this year. The chill kept us in our sleeping bags well past sunrise. When we got up most of the other campers had packed out. By the time we cooked breakfast and gathered our gear it was almost 10:00 a.m. The trail down from Garfield to Galehead is steep and we were going slow. Both kids felt tired from a month of school & sports. But we arrived at the Galehead hut before noon. After a little lunch we dashed up to the Galehead summit. We did not know that this would be our last clear view of the trip. Instead of the sunny skies all weekend forecast on Thursday, a thick mist verging on drizzle was rolling across the higher peaks.

Mt. Galehead look out

But climbing mountains is not only about enjoying landscape views. The process of planning, preparing, and then traversing these high remote places is reward enough. We go through this process both because it reveals our strengths & weaknesses, and it transforms them. I've done few activities that strips ones layers away like walking across a mountain wilderness. After spending a week climbing I know my partner's fear & courage, deficits & skills, their humor & their peeves, often better than some people I've known for years. I'm certain they know mine as well. On a fogged over cold day these inner views become more apparent. Seeing clearly the vistas of our hearts, minds, and emotions is the most important aspect of climbing mountains.

My two little mountain goats struggled up the steep mile to South Twin Mountain. We had discussed skipping the run out to North Twin before leaving the Galehead Hut. I was concerned about getting a tent spot at Guyot and the kids agreed to shorten the route. Half way up the climb it was clear we had made a good choice. The progress was slow and the kids were frustrated with their pace. But we were happy to make the summit, fogged in as it was. A stiff breeze and drizzle made the top uncomfortable so we quickly headed down trail. Once we got out of the wind they found some new energy. They trotted ahead me across the boulder field on the side of Mt. Guyot. When we got to the campsite it was past 4:00. We met the site keeper on the trail down. We told her "hello from Swiss-G", as the Garfield site keeper had asked of us. She told us that all the tent platforms were taken, but the shelter was only half full. Knowing that rain might fall over night I was just as happy to sleep in the shelter. When we got down to the shelter Sadie & Henry were there sorting their gear. The kids took 2 spots on the upper deck right next to them.

colors in the valley from Mount Bond

My original plan was to avoid the Guyot campsite Saturday night. I expected it to be packed on a holiday weekend. In fact "Guyot City" lived up to it's reputation. The cooking area was jammed as folks made dinner elbow to elbow. One bear box was full to the rim and the other was being used as a makeshift kitchen counter. I found a small set of flat rocks in front of the shelter for our dinner spot. I dislike burning a camp stove in a crowd. The kids & I stayed dry enough under tree cover as we ate our dinner. By the time we finished all the remaining spots in the shelter were claimed. Though the campsite was full it was not loud. The kids & I climbed into our sleeping bags as everyone in the shelter also settled in. It was completely dark at 8:00 p.m. Sadie & Henry chatted with us for a while about their summer camp experiences on Newfound Lake, and the kids hopes to thru hike the AT. We were all asleep well before 9.

ascending the Bonds

The next morning a light rain was still falling. Sadie & Henry packed up and got on the trail before we started breakfast. We got an earlier start than the previous day. The kids seemed to have more energy as we made the quick climb to West Bond Mountain. The ridge was still fogged in but as we scaled Mount Bond a glimpse of blue appeared over head. Once on the the peak we could see into the Pemi Wilderness Valley. Below the birches had turned yellow and the maples were starting to turn too. I had some hope that the sky would clear more as we ascended Bond Cliff. But once we approached the top the fog thickened again. Still the kids got just enough view of the cliffs to see how spectacular they might be on a clear day. Both said we must make another trip to the Bonds. I entirely agreed.

crossing the Pemi River on the crowded bridge to Lincoln Woods

The walk out was long as I expected. Once down the the cliffs themselves the forest was bright with autumn color. But 5 miles of rail grade does not go quickly. Actually it does not go quickly for me. The kids were still energized from their first time on Bond Cliff. They raced ahead of me until they had a good 1/4 mile lead. I caught up to them only when they stopped at the Lincoln Woods trail juncture. We met "Mom" there to join us for the hike out. As we traipsed down the flat path the crowds got thicker and thicker. When we got to the bridge across the Pemi River the congestion was like being at Fenway Park. But it was high foliage season and half of Boston was driving the Kancamagus Highway, or so it seemed. As my wife poked through the stop & go traffic in Lincoln I leaned back to imagine being back on Bond Cliff. The view inside my eyelids brought a smile to my lips.

climbing to Bond Cliff

The Ying & Yang Trail: the Tripyramid's via the North Slide

The view from the North Tripyramid Slide

The north slide of the Tripyramid loop has a reputation. It is known as one of the most technical sections of trail in the White Mountains. But getting there on foot is the opposite sort of hiking, a broad path of hard pack easy terrain. The contrast between the approach from Livermore Road and the climb itself could not be more extreme. Last Sunday my 2 little mountain goats and I hiked the Tripyramid loop to find the beauty at both ends of the trail.

hiking up Livermore Road

Livermore Road is not a hiking trail. It is a Nordic ski trail in the winter and an old highway through the mountains in the summer. The path is so broad and firm that trucks can drive up it with ease. It is also the most direct route to get to the Tripyramids from Waterville Valley. I am very familiar with this trail since I've been a Waterville Valley Nordic pass holder for over a decade. My son & I know every bridge and landmark on the 2 miles up to the trail head. Some hikers choose to ride bikes up the first miles of Livermore Road. We saw a couple of guys riding down with backpacks as we hiked out. But traversing from the trail head other than on foot violates the "Underhill Rules" and invalidates a peak for the sake of any AMC list. So we followed the rules & swift walked the wide gentle path to the Tripyramid Loop trail.

finding footholds on the slabs

After 3.5 miles of easy walking in the woods this route crosses a creek and goes straight into narrow steep single track. The remaining approach to the North Tripyramid slide is not long. We said hello to the WVTA volunteer clearing brush on the single track. I lashed my poles to my pack as soon as reached the start of the climb. The slide requires so much scrambling that trekking poles become a hindrance immediately. I expected to need both hands up much of this section, which indeed I did. I wore my Salomon X-Alp LTR boots since they edge almost like climbing shoes. My two little mountain goats took to the slide like bees to honey. They picked their way up the cracks and slabs almost like it was level ground. I thought something about kids and rock climbing from a tender age watching them ascend.

Fear is a limiting reaction. It often leads to tunnel vision on a route. Many of the reports I've read about climbing the Tripyramid north slide for the first time have concluded with "never again". While I certainly avoid this trail in wet weather, it is still one I enjoy immensely. The slow pace of a hard scramble allows me to fully enjoy the mountain. The east side of the Osceola's make a bold impression from across the valley. The sight of the Pemi Wilderness peaks come into view only after the half way point. The slide is also covered with gorgeous pink granite. On a sunny afternoon it sparkles under foot. But when one is consumed with fear it is near impossible to take in the beauty of this trail. Admittedly though, this slide has plenty to be fearful about in exposure, grade, and narrow foot holds.

pink granite on the Tripyramid Slide

approaching the scree field

No fear for these kids though. After they charged through the scree at the top of the slide we re-entered the woods for the last 200 meters to the summit. I was almost disappointed that the North Tripyramid summit is tree covered. But we enjoyed our lunch and the look out view of Mt. Tecumseh. The traverse was easy compared to the ascent. The return descent on the south slide was far from easy. Although it is shorter and shallower than the north, it is still loose and requires sustained scrambling. We were rewarded with the views of the Sandwich range and lake Winnipesauke on the horizon. I worried that the long hike back down Livermore Road would be a chore. But when I asked my son if he was bored he replied "no, I can find plenty of things in the woods to look at". So we took the diversion down to the "Tall Pines" near the end of Livermore Road. I had never taken this 1/4 mile path down to Flume Brook despite passing by hundreds of times. We found the geo-cache there and enjoyed a sit by the brook under the 80 foot pines.  Perhaps the lesson of the day is on a long meandering hike make sure to stop and see the diversions. Certainly when I climb the Tripyramid's again I hope to enjoy the ascent, the views, and the diversions as much as I did last weekend.

Mt Tecumseh from Middle Tripyramid